CULTURE
Kashmir’s rich traditions are an integral part of the region’s rich cultural heritage. Our great tradition of making Gulkand at home, locally known as Khambeer, is not only a sweet preserve used in Kashmiri kitchens from decades, but also a part of our rich cultural. It is made from fresh rose-petals (sometimes sun-dried) which are crushed with sugar in a mortar-pestle, locally called as Nyeam (Okhli). It is a thick jam-like brownish paste also called rose-petal jam having a distinctive flavor, unique aroma and delectable taste. It is said to have originated in the Mughal Empire and has been used to cool, soothe and cure the body during hot and cold weather.
Making Gulkand at home is simple and enjoyable process. One can experiment it with different herbs and spices to create a unique flavor. This traditional Gulkand is the most common type of Gulkand made from fresh rose petals (Damascas variety) pulverized with sugar and a variety of aromatic herbs and spice. It is known for its sweet and floral taste all over the Valley.
The word Gulkand comes from two words ‘gul’ and ‘kand’, meaning flower and sweet, respectively. It is a very popular delicacy of Kashmir and is often referred to as the ultimate lavish royal treat.
There are various fantastic health benefits of eating traditional Gulkand; including, reducing inflammation, improving gut health, and enhancing skin & hair quality, etc; the list is long. It is also a good source of vitamins and minarals. In addition, it is a great source of dietary fiber which helps with digestion. And with all these nutrients, Gulkand is a great food to keep one’s body healthy and balanced.
There are, no doubt, several types of Gulkand known to us, each with its own unique qualities and characteristics besides the traditional Kashmiri home-made type. Which include: Organic Gulkand, Mixed-Fruit Gulkand, Sandalwood Gulkand and Amla Gulkand. But of all these varieties, the traditional Gulkand is the most widely accepted, frequently demanded and moderately priced, thereby making it a popular choice of everyone. But how sad! This traditional variety of ours is very least prepared at our edifices now with much dependence on market products. In fact, we have forgotten all our home-made recipes that once used to be essential items in every household of Kashmir.
Gulkand is considered the best Ayurvedic medicine and a natural remedy for anxiety and stress as it has a calming effect on the mind and can help to reduce stress and promote relaxation which we all crave for in the present times. In Kashmir, it was mostly kept for winters and generally used with traditional green tea locally known as Kahwa. However, in India, Gulkand has been consumed since ages, mostly relished in the delicious ‘Paan’. Even Unani system of medicine has also realized the importance of this home-made delicacy, often recommended as a perfect medicine for cold and cough during winter months in Kashmir.
I recall, Gulkand for Kehwa was made up of rose-petals that would preferably grow in almost every courtyard in villages. Elders in family would collect pink rose-petals and then grind them with sugar in a traditional Okhli. The crushed paste of it was later filled tightly in a an air-tight bottle to be kept hanging on a balcony window for sun-cooking in autumn sunshine, only to be used for making Kehwa during cold winter days.
I had seen my father making Gulkand by grinding rose-petals in the traditional Okhli, quite umpteen times. He later used to pack the paste, brown in color, in the glass bottle, hanged to be sun-cooked from the tower window of our old house. He would, in any cost, not let anyone to open its lid, till the couple of weeks would go by. In fact, a Gulkand bottle would remain dangling on the window of our neighbor until yesteryears. It is apt to mention here that not only were rose petals used for making Gulkand but the discarded saffron flower petals, were also used to make the delicacy of Khambeer at home.
Those days, when Gulkand would not remain available at home, people would not hesitate to fetch it from their neighbors to add it to Kehwa which was considered as a cure to cough and cold in chilly season. Our wisdom blessed elderly-folk, would not miss any chance to get the home made Gulkand prepared ahead of winter as they trusted least on the Kehwa spices been brought from the market.
According to noted poet and author Zareef Ahmad Zareef, “Home made Gulkand was pure, and had no preservatives added to it which market varieties have in abundance. Now people wholly and solely rely on market items, and have forgotten their rich culture. No doubt prosperity has come in our life, yet, we all need to preserve our rich cultural heritage.”
The traditional variety of it is still made in some rural areas of Kashmir where pink roses mostly grow. Though these pink roses are also a rarity now, seen only on graveyards, yet, we must try to grow them again in our courtyards so that, the legacy of Gulkand lives on in the rural wonders of Kashmir. We need to preserve this home manufactured delicacy and save it before it extincts! It is time to taste incredible Gulkand benefits which is devoid of any preservatives. Mix a teaspoon of it in warm milk or water for a refreshing sherbet or spread it on your slice of bread and relish it like jam.
(The writer is a teacher and a regular Rafiabad based RK Columnist. Email: [email protected])
