Marvelled lanes and bylanes of old Srinagar city entwine a labyrinth to leave visitors in a state of awe and admiration. Elevated minarets and domes of mosques and shrines make silent renditions about piety, peace and religious fervour of the region. Visiting Shehri-Khaas (Old Srinagar City) is somewhat exploring the entire culture, customs, traditions and heritage of a civilization. Famed Vitasta bears witness to its centuries old glory, grandeur and elegance. Some marquee bridges across the Vaeth have earned eternity. Even most of the Mohallas of Shehri-Khaas have been baptized on these bridges.
Though rapid pace of urbanization and modernization has not spared the sui generis region of the city, yet, the reverence of its gloriously majestic past at display, swells up our chests with pride and joy, for being the custodians of the illustrious civilization. Aroma of dried spices and condiments, redolence of fresh and dried fruits, veneration of old houses of architectural marvels resembling Mughal and central Asian hues, serene tombs and shrines preserving our rich secular traditions, sophistication of arts and crafts exhibiting the eminence and ace of our adept artisans, purity of hearts brimming with warmth of cherished human values – Shehri-khaas manifests a saga of resilience, resistance and cultural legacy of more than two millennia old civilization that is attributed to Raja Praversena’s reign who is believed to be the founder of the old city.
The downtown area of the prestigiously revered Srinagar city is almost a confined yet vast museum. I won’t exaggerate to call it an open book because the cultural inheritance at display is quite enormously captivating and engrossing. It proclaims a cherished past of the glorious civilization that had trade, cultural and educational links with central Asia and many parts of Europe. The region is abode to political stalwarts, acclaimed artisans, saints, Sufis and craftsmen. The area is home to the last resting places of our exalted and acclaimed saints and sages. Shrines of Dastageer Sahab (RA), Rehbab Sahab (RA), khanqahi Mu-alla, Naqshbandi Sahab (RA), Shariqa Devi temple Hari-Parbhat, renowned Jamia Masjid Srinagar etc… spread special spiritual vibes across the Shehri-Khaas to encompass every devotee and visitor under the divine refuge and protection. A devotional flavour proliferates with every step while treading the streets and alleys of the area. Your visit to the area attains prominence if you are accompanied by your mother.
Very recently, I had the privilege to attend the Mausoleum of Makhdoom Sahab (RA) along with my mother. The shrine at the alpine heights of Kohi-Maran up-helds our centuries old ethereal and extra-mundane Sufi traditions. The mausoleum at the engaging elevations of Kohi Maaraan in the bosom of the old city, safeguards our spiritual, social and human values. Flanked by mosques and residential houses, the ornately carved stone stairs of rectangular igneous rocks leading to the tomb of Makhdoom Sahab (RA), balms and solaces rusty souls in pure spiritual ambience. The oily yet coarse rectangular slabs of stairs are more than stair steps for Kashmiri Muslims and Pandits equally. The stairs are but a great source of reverence, awe and tranquility for Kashmiris. Belief and faith etched to the stairs is somewhat ineffable. The elevated stairs have exhibited miracles of unimaginable magnitude. The amount of devotion and piety associated with flight of stairs is mammoth. My mother made the ascension to the shrine very special. Chanting Durood, Manqabat and supplications for entire humanity, she made the journey sweeter and memorable.
The ambience in and around the shrine is quite demulcent and placid. Waves of air seem to intone hymns and oneness of Allah (SWT), fairies donning apparels of Jannah seem to shower aromatic scarlet-red rose petals on the devotees within the precinct of the shrine, damsels from heavens carol to welcome visitors with supplications and prayers , pleasant breeze at the alpine heights of Kohi-Maran refreshes scalded souls with the fragrance of serene divinity, unseen trees with dense green canopy seem to cast shadows of tranquility on everything there, a pleasant hangover caused by the numinous atmosphere communes everyone with Allah (SWT), water cauldron kept in front of the shrine has elixir like effects, votives tied against the grills seem to create miracles, earnest implorations for divine mercy and forgiveness resonate in the environs of the shrine to create an aura of deep devotion. I found myself relieved and relaxed. The transcendental milieu mitigates and alleviates miseries miraculously.
Staring at the Rouza (Shrine) fills hearts with contentment and gratification, pains and sorrows exhaust with a glance at its windows, I experienced the truest quietude and contentment within the premises of the mausoleum. Every devotee there looked immersed and sunken in the river of divine mercy. Greed, avarice and cupidity vanish with a glimpse of the unseen spiritual aura. My heart longs for the pleasantest hangover once again.
(Author is Teacher and a Columnist. He can be reached at: [email protected])
