Kashmiri cuisine, a tapestry woven with threads of tradition and infused with aromatic spices, stands as a testament to the region’s rich cultural heritage. As we embark on a gastronomic journey through the enchanting valley, we discover the harmonious blend of saffron’s golden hues, cardamom’s fragrant whispers, and fennel’s gentle embrace, creating a culinary masterpiece that is nothing short of a symphony on the palate. Join me as I traverse the alleys of tradition, savouring signature dishes like Rogan Josh and Dum Aloo, indulging in the grandeur of Wazwan, and partaking in the ritualistic brewing of Kahwa.
Kashmiri cuisine is a delightful fusion of vibrant flavors and aromatic spices, offering an experience that reflects the region’s rich cultural diversity. Infused with locally sourced ingredients such as saffron, fennel, and ginger, along with the distinctive essence of cardamom, Kashmiri dishes boast a unique and characteristic taste. This cuisine caters to a broad spectrum of preferences, making it equally appealing to both meat enthusiasts and vegetarians. Although the fact is that it is slightly more biased towards the meat enthusiasts but one gets the point.
The wide range of flavors and textures in Kashmiri cuisine ensures a delightful experience for the one enjoying the food, me in this case.
The Culinary Extravaganza of Wazwan
At the heart of Kashmiri cuisine lies Wazwan, a culmination of various savory and sumptuous dishes which were, in a traditional sense, passed down through generations. Wazwan, a multi-course meal, stands as a testament to Kashmiri cooking techniques. This meal is a must-experience for those seeking an authentic taste of Kashmiri traditional cuisine. In Kashmiri, ‘waz’ translates to ‘cook’ or ‘cooking,’ and ‘wan’ means ‘shop’. As deservedly extravagant as wazwan is, it is no surprise that at the pinnacle of formal banquets in Kashmir serving Wazwan has become an obligatory practice. Without it a wedding can’t be imagined. This royal feast comprises thirty-six courses, with a majority showcasing meticulously prepared meat dishes. A “wasteiwaze” i.e. a master chef, oversees the overnight cooking process.
Guests, arranged in groups of four, seated in long columns partake in the meal from a single large copper plate (coated with zinc) known as the ‘traem.’ The feast commences with a ceremonial hand washing using a portable basin called ‘Tash-t-naer,’ followed by the arrival of the traem initially laden with rice, seekh kababs, methimaaz, tabakhmaaz, safedkokur, and zafrankokur, among other delicacies.
The tasteful journey unfolds with yogurt and chutney served separately in small earthen pots. The Waza, a junior cook, then presents up to a whopping 20 additional dishes turn after turn. Some may consider this excessive and wasteful especially from a religious perspective but the practice seems to be undeterred.
In most cuisines, there are some staple dishes that can’t be left out. Eight such dishes (if cooked properly) in Wazwan hold that same essentiality namely Kababs, Tabakhmaaz, Rista, Rogan josh, Daniwal korma, Aab gosh (a people favourite), marcze-wangan korma, and gushtaba— a substantial meatball that signifies the conclusion of the main course. The dessert phase follows, featuring warm sweets in winter and refreshing options in summer.
Rogan Josh
Rogan Josh, by definition, may mean “stewed in ghee”. In the hearts of Kashmiri people or stomachs if one wishes to be precise over being poetic, Rogan Josh takes the spotlight—a masterblend of succulent mutton, aromatic spices, sautéed onions, tomatoes and a crescendo of flavors. And the grand finale features a vibrant infusion of Kashmiri red chili powder, sizzling oil or ghee. Garnished with fresh coriander.
Tabakh Maaz
Tabakh Maaz, a gem of a dish that showcases the region’s rich heritage. This dish transforms lamb ribs into a delicacy through a diligent cooking process. First braised with a blend of fragrant spices, the ribs are then fried to perfection. The result is a heavenly marriage of tenderness and crispiness. Served as part of the royal Wazwan feast, Tabakh Maaz is a testimony to Kashmir’s cooking prowess—a dish that oozes tradition with every bite.
Rista
Rista is a celebration of meat in the form of delicate, flavorful meatballs. Each meatball is carefully prepared and bathed in a luxurious gravy infused with the vibrant hues of paprika, saffron, and fennel. The vivid taste and pleasant flavors of Rista tell the story of tradition, skill, artistry and thus, the essence of Kashmiri cuisine. As Wazwan is served, each Traem (plate) receives four Ristas, and it is the first delicacy served by the Waza, adding a touch of ceremony to this exquisite experience.
Importance of Local Produce in Kashmiri Cuisine
In the mosaic of Kashmiri cuisine, apples, walnuts, and saffron stand as iconic symbols, contributing not only to the flavors but also to the cultural and economic complex of the region. The renowned Kashmiri Apples, lend their sweet and crisp profile to various dishes. They find their way into desserts, chutneys, and even savory preparations, adding a natural sweetness and refreshing crunch. Orchards of apple trees adorn the Kashmir Valley, making apples not just a delight with respect to food but also a symbol of the region’s picturesque landscape. The annual apple harvest is a much celebrated event as a lot of families depend on it, reflecting the cultural and economic importance of this fruit.
Walnuts are a versatile ingredient in Kashmiri cuisine, finding a place in both sweet and savory dishes. They add a rich, nutty flavor and a satisfying crunch to various delicacies like Kashmiri ‘Gouji Chutney’, Kashmiri Pulaaw, and Tabakh Maaz. From traditional desserts to spicy meat preparations, walnuts are a culinary cornerstone. Walnut trees are a common sight in the region.
Saffron, often referred to as “Zafran” in Kashmiri, is a precious spice that imparts a distinctive golden hue and a subtle floral flavour to dishes. It is a key ingredient in the aromatic Kashmiri Wazwan and the famous Kashmiri Kahwa along with various desserts. Kashmiri saffron is globally renowned for its quality. The cultivation of saffron has historical roots in the region, and the spice holds cultural significance, being associated with traditional rituals and ceremonies. The place in Kashmir named ‘Pampore Wuddar’ is the most famous and top producer of Saffron in Kashmir.
The Time-Honored Kashmiri Kangri and Pheran
- The Kangri, a ‘Cozy Companion’
The Kangri is a traditional earthen fire pot, and is not merely an artifact; it’s a portable source of warmth and comfort. Encased in a beautifully woven wicker structure, it cradles smoldering embers, providing a soothing heat during the chilly Kashmiri winters. Beyond its practical use, the Kangri is a symbol of affection. Often crafted with care and passed down through generations, it represents the warmth shared among families and communities during cold winter gatherings.
- The Pheran, a ‘Garment of Grace’
The Pheran is a loose, long, sleeved tunic, and a traditional Kashmiri garment that transcends time. Worn by both men and women, it is a capable winter garment renowned for its ability to enclose warmth owing to its heat insulating quality. The Pheran is a garment complimentary to the Kangri; they are preferred by the people to be utilised together in order to better protect themselves from the coldness of the winter. It serves as a testament to the region’s rich sartorial heritage. The Pheran is not just an attire; it’s a statement of our cultural identity. The Pheran has weathered the tides of cold winds and time, adapting to changing trends while preserving its authenticity. For women, It is also a canvas for intricate Kashmiri embroidery and reflects the cultural resilience of a community proud of its heritage.
Traditional Breads of Kashmir
- Shermal
Infused with saffron, milk, and sugar, Shermal boasts a sweet aroma and a tender texture. Shermal, renowned for its distinctive texture and flavour, is a delicacy primarily savored during weddings and festive occasions in Kashmir. Due to its delectable taste, Shermal has gained popularity beyond the region and can now be found in various parts of India, including Delhi, Kolkata, and Bangalore. Notably, the most sought-after Sheermals are offered in Pampore, a town in the southern Kashmir Pulwama district. In Pampore, a local baker has charmingly named his bakery “Hema Malini Shermal,” expressing his belief that his Shermal is as delightful as the famous actress Hema Malini.
- The Kashmiri Roth
Roth, another jewel in Kashmir’s bread crown, is very special bread associated with festivals and auspicious occasions. Its preparation involves dough made from rice flour, milk, sugar, and ghee, resulting in a rich, fragrant bread with a distinctive flavour. Often adorned with silver or gold foil, it becomes a centrepiece during celebratory feasts, signifying prosperity and joy.
Kashmiri Kahwa: A Warm Embrace of Hospitality
A cup of Kehwa is more than just a beverage—it’s a symbol of warm hospitality and cultural richness. This aromatized tea, brewed with green tea leaves, saffron strands, cardamom, and cinnamon, creates a sensory experience that transcends the ordinary. The tongue-soothing blend is often sweetened with natural honey and garnished with crushed almonds, offering a delightful medley of flavours.
Served in traditional Kashmiri Samovars (fancy copper kettles), Kahwa is more than a drink; it’s a ritual. Whether shared during family gatherings, festive celebrations, or intimate conversations, each sip is a journey into the heart of Kashmiri culture. Embrace the warmth, savour the flavours, and let Kashmiri Kahwa be your guide to the epitome of hospitality. Very simply put, it is truly a delight to drink a well made cup of Kahwa.
As I conclude my food journey through the enchanting valley of Kashmir, the symphony of flavors lingers in the air, echoing the rich cultural heritage of this picturesque region. From the grandeur of Wazwan to the poetic allure of Rogan Josh, Tabakh Maaz, and Rista, each dish is a masterpiece that tells a story of tradition, skill, and the essence of Kashmiri food. The significance of local produce, the time-honoured traditions of Kangri and Pheran, and the symbolic breads like Sheermal and Roth further enrich the culinary tapestry. Lastly, the warm embrace of Kashmiri hospitality comes to life in a cup of Kehwa—a sensory experience that transcends the ordinary. Embrace the warmth, savor the flavors, and let Kashmiri cuisine be your guide to the epitome of hospitality in the heart of the majestic snow-capped mountains and verdant valleys.
(The writer is the author and President Kashmir writers’ Association. Feedback: [email protected])
