CULTURE
One of the best ways to relax and keep warm during Chillaikalan in Kashmir is to sit in a cozy corner and sip a cup of traditional nun chai, a delicious conventional tea that tastes divine. Nun Chai or noon chai (noon means salt, namuk) is a tea beverage that most of the people in the Valley start their day with. Known by different names like pink tea, namkeen chai, gulabi chai, Kashmiri chai, etc. it is liked all over the world because it reminds us of our rich culture and connects us to roots. It is also known as “sheer chai” among Kashmiri Pandit fraternity.
For a savory-sweet combination, it is taken with Tchot (Kashmiri bread like tchochvor, bakirkhaen, lawaas, kulcha, girda, etc). The best combination of nun chai, however, is routh (cake like bread topped with dry fruits and baked in clay tandoor), which it is nowadays least taken with except in the month of Ramadhan.
The origin of nun chai in Kashmir is tied to the tour of the famous 14th-century Sufi saint and social reformer of Iran Mir Syed Ali Hamadani (RA), popularly known among people as Shah-e-Hamadan (RA) who on his virtuous visit to Kashmir had with him few hundred artisans and craftsmen who not only enriched the region with their skills, offering people here a new sources of livelihood like papier mache, embroidery, calligraphy, shawl & carpet weaving, etc. But also, brought the nun chai to Kashmir, having probably acquired a taste for it en-route to this land via Central Asia.
Special tea leaves are brewed with a pinch of fulh (baking soda) and some spoons of salt. Although, it is not suggested to consume baking soda in large amount, yet, a pinch of it is believed to help in alleviating acid reflux, heartburn and indigestion.
The chai is incomplete without milk. Once the milk is added to the brewed chai called tyoth locally, it turns to its pink color, thus gives it the name as gulabi chai. Tyoth (the boiled nun chai sans milk) was churned out earlier by women folk in Kashmir. It was poured over and over from one container to another repeatedly. This process of aerating the chai, called khaal waal, helped deepen the pink color and flavor to it. But now this practice is least preferred. And for a richer taste, one can add malai (cream) to it.
In Kashmir, nun chai was typically brewed in tradition copper kettle of Russian origin known as Samovar (the Russian word ‘Samovar’ translates to self boiler or self brew). It was the most authentic way to brew it in Kashmiri Samovar. But how sad, the Samovar nun chai tradition is a distant dream in our houses now! Except during occasions like maenzrat, (mehnadi night), feast, fatiha khwani, etc.
The rich flavored nun chai has many health benefits. It prevents bloating, and heartburn, and is known to reduce stress (exhaustion) and anxiety. It helps in digestion, weight loss, boosts immunity and controls blood pressure. However, doctors do not recommend sipping of it, beyond one cup because it might be harmful.
There are a lot of people who are addicted to nun chai. The feel the nun chai teth (a craving for nun chai) when they are away from their home. They believe it removes their exhaustion and keeps them in tough with their rich culture. The chai has spread its tentacles beyond the bowl valley to various parts of India like Jammu, Amritsar, Delhi, Ajmer, etc.
(Author is a teacher and regular columnist and can be reached at: [email protected])
