A decade ago, I spent four and a half years stationed in the lovely village of Kothair in the Anantnag District of the valley. This charming village surrounded by beautiful scenery made a deep impression on my spirit. Kothair, framed by rolling hills and graced with the captivating spring called Papa Sudan Nag, never ceased to amaze me. The changing seasons painted the surroundings in a vibrant symphony of colours, revealing purest form of nature. The locals, deeply rooted in ancient traditions and folklore, enrich the charm of the village with their stories. Even now, after ten years, the connections made in Kothair endure, testifying to the warmth and hospitality of its residents. It is from this personal bond that I embark on a journey to uncover the forgotten heritage of Kothair, a hidden gem poised to reclaim its place in Kashmir’s cultural narrative.
The village of Kothair is a hidden treasure located in the south-east of Anantnag, where the scenery whispers old secrets and the air is heavy with tales of antiquity. Tucked away within its embrace lies an obscure legacy, a site of great importance known as Papa Sudan Nag, also known as Kapteshwara Tirtha. Encircled by prehistoric archaeological ruins, this spring is rich in legends and customs that entice the inquisitive traveler to explore its secrets.
The legend of Papa Sudan Nag is as captivating as the valley itself. According to local Hindu folklore, this spring possesses the divine power to wash away sins. The name “Papa Sudan” in Sanskrit means “sin washer,” encapsulating the belief that a dip in its healing waters could cleanse one’s soul. In ancient times, pilgrims embarked on a spiritual journey to Kothair, drawn by the promise of redemption through the purifying touch of this enigmatic spring.
Kashmir, known for its historic springs, envelops these natural marvels in a thick web of legends. These springs are generally divided into plain and hilly categories, and each has an intriguing history of its own. Stories of Naga worship, which is thought to have been the predominant religion in Kashmir in the fourth and fifth centuries BC, reverberate through the hills. The remnants of Naga worship continued even as Buddhism gained prominence, thanks to King Gonanda’s revival of the age-old customs.
In the middle of these hallowed grounds, Kothair is a reminder of a different time. The story of “Rajtarangni” by Kalhana, which narrates the friendship between King Bhoja and a plainsman called Padmaraja, immortalizes the spring as Kapastevara Tirtha. Inspired by Kothair’s beauty, the king built a pool at Kapastevara and vowed to wash his face every day with the holy waters of the spring.
A fascinating narrative tells the story of Dacen Raja Matshankund, who, according to legend, experienced a remarkable transformation after immersing himself in the rejuvenating waters. The tale unfolds as follows:
On a particular day, King Matshankund hosted a grand feast, inviting dignitaries from all corners of the realm. Among the culinary delights presented was a local delicacy, kheer (rice pudding). Following the feast, a dog consumed the leftover portions, inadvertently getting some kheer on its ear. The canine promptly headed to a nearby spring, cleansing and washing its ear in the process. This incident caught the attention of Raja Matshankund, who was grappling with a mysterious ailment causing his ears to resemble those of a buffalo.
Inspired by the dog’s instinctive actions, Raja Matshankund decided to bathe in the same spring. Miraculously, his affliction was cured. This extraordinary event has been immortalized in a local folk song, echoing through generations, vividly portraying the mystical transformation of Raja Matshankund and the miraculous healing of his buffalo-like ears.
The song’s verses resonate with the tale:
“Makun razas Mounshi kan
Su kate baliyas kothair wan
(Raja Makan had Buffalo ears which got treated at kothair forest)”
However, despite the rich history and cultural significance, Kothair languishes in neglect. The archaeological remains, including ancient Pandu buildings, stand as silent witnesses to the passage of time. The lack of conservation infrastructure has left the site vulnerable, with unchecked human vandalism and weathering threatening its very existence.
The state archaeology department’s minimal efforts, such as renovating the arcade around the spring, fall short of the comprehensive conservation needed to protect this historical treasure. Kothair, designated a state-protected monument under the Ancient Monuments Protection Act, 1977, remains devoid of the attention and preservation measures required to safeguard its heritage.
As tourists enthusiastically explore the well-known Mughal gardens and springs of Kashmir, Kothair stands as a forgotten and overlooked element within the intricate historical fabric of the Valley. Its close proximity to the vibrant tourist centre of Achabal Mughal garden only deepens the mystery surrounding its neglect.
One contributing factor to the overlooked status of Kothair is its adjacency to the Achabal wildlife sanctuary, a habitat for a diverse range of wild animals, including bears and leopards. The necessity of establishing a proper fence around the sanctuary becomes apparent; as such a measure would not only enhance the safety of tourists camping overnight but also alleviate concerns regarding potential encounters with wildlife.
Despite the crowds drawn to the Mughal gardens of Kashmir during the scorching summers, the potential of Kothair as a heritage tourist site remains untapped. The ancient spring, surrounded by the remnants of Pandu structures, holds significant archaeological value. Nevertheless, its absence on the tourist map underscores the broader challenge faced by many heritage sites on the verge of extinction. Addressing the neglect of Kothair and implementing measures for its preservation could contribute to a more comprehensive and balanced exploration of the rich historical and natural heritage of Kashmir.
In a region boasting a vibrant cultural fabric, the neglect of Kothair raises questions about the commitment to preserving J & K’s rich heritage. The tales of Raja Makan’s treated buffalo ears and the mystical properties of Papa Sudan Nag fade into obscurity as the site’s monumental ruins face the brunt of time.
It is imperative for the authorities to recognise the urgency of conserving Kothair and promoting it as a heritage site. Scientific exploration and preservation efforts must replace the current state of neglect to ensure that this ancient spring and its archaeological remains continue to narrate their stories for generations to come. As the echoes of history resonate in the winds of Kashmir, Kothair awaits its revival, a forgotten gem yearning to reclaim its place in the cultural tapestry of the region.
Epilogue: A Plea for Preservation
A cry for preservation can be heard in the shade of Kothair’s old spring, where the sound of leaves rustling and whispers of the past meld. It is imperative that this lost legacy—which bears witness to the rich cultural legacy of the area—be preserved for future generations. When the sun sets over the rolling hills and the abandoned ruins are bathed in a golden glow, it is up to us all to make sure that Kothair’s stories live on and reverberate through the ages.
(Author is a regular columnist and can be reached at: [email protected])
