There is more to Kashmir than its scenic landscapes; its cuisine is a delightful blend of flavors reflecting centuries of history and diverse influences. From ancient traditions to medieval migrations and contemporary innovations, Kashmiri cuisine offers a fascinating exploration of time and taste.
The story of Kashmiri cuisine begins in ancient times when rice became a staple food in the valley. The saying “haakh-batta,” which means “greens and rice,” underscores the significance of these ingredients in Kashmiri cooking. Rice cultivation thrived in the valley, providing sustenance to its people and laying the foundation for the cuisine we know today.
During the medieval period, Kashmiri culinary traditions underwent significant changes due to migrations, invasions, and cultural exchanges. In the 14th century, Emir Timur’s invasion of India brought skilled craftsmen, including cooks, from places like Samarkand to Kashmir. Among them were the ancestors of the Wazas, renowned master chefs who shaped Kashmiri cuisine with their expertise.
Before this influx, Kashmiri cuisine bore the influence of its Buddhist and Pandit (Hindu) inhabitants, characterized by vegetarian dishes and local ingredients. Their culinary legacy left an indelible mark on gastronomic identity of Kashmir.
The Silk Road played a pivotal role in enriching Kashmiri cuisine with aromatic spices from Central Asia and Persia. Ingredients like cardamom, fennel, ginger, and saffron became prized additions to Kashmiri dishes, infusing them with complexity and fragrance. The Mughal Empire further shaped Kashmiri cuisine, introducing a preference for meat dishes and the rich, layered flavours of Mughlai cooking.
Kashmiri cuisine holds deep cultural significance, serving as a symbol of heritage and identity for its people. Traditional cooking methods, passed down through generations, reflect a deep respect for nature and a commitment to preserving culinary traditions.
Food plays a central role in Kashmiri social gatherings and celebrations, fostering bonds of kinship and camaraderie. Whether it is a wedding feast or a simple family meal, the act of sharing food brings people together in joy and celebration.
The richness of a Kashmiri Wazwan feast lies not only in its flavours but also in its variety. The number of dishes served can vary greatly, ranging from traditional spreads of 36 to 70 dishes to more modest feasts with around 30 offerings. Among the culinary treasures you might encounter are the iconic Rogan Josh, a slow-cooked lamb dish bathed in a fragrant yogurt gravy, and Goshtaba, delicate meatballs swimming in spiced yogurt.
Kebab, made with ground lamb that are spiced and then grilled on skewers. Yakhni offers a simpler delight, featuring tender lamb simmered in yogurt and water with minimal spices, while Tabak Maaz presents crispy fried lamb ribs, a unique textural contrast. Rista tantalizes with meatballs in a tomato-based gravy, and Daniwal Korma delights with lamb cooked in yogurt, spices, and onion puree. Aab Gosht offers succulent lamb chunks infused with fennel and cardamom, while Marchwangan Korma boasts chicken legs or thighs in a spicy browned-onion sauce. Haakh provides a flavourful twist with collard greens seasoned with spices and meat, and Wazwan Chicken impresses with its garnish of chopped coriander and melon seeds. And let’s not forget Methi Maaz, featuring lamb stomach or intestines cooked with fenugreek leaves. These dishes, among others, showcase the rich flavours that make up a wazwan feast, each dish testifying Kashmiri culinary artistry and hospitality.
Moreover, Kashmiri cuisine serves as a bridge between the past and the present, connecting contemporary tastes with centuries-old culinary legacies. It testifies the enduring spirit of a land steeped in history and tradition.
The history and development of Kashmiri cuisine offer a fascinating glimpse into the rich culture of Kashmir. From its ancient roots to its modern interpretations, Kashmiri cuisine continues to captivate and inspire with its vibrant flavours and timeless traditions. As we embark on a culinary journey through the Kashmir Valley, let us savour each dish as a window into the valley’s storied past and boundless culinary heritage.
(Author is a regular columnist of RK and can be reached at: [email protected])
