Who else remembers the traditional Wazwan feast from Kashmir, where a sumptuous spread of over 7 dishes was served on a large, rounded plate called a ‘Trami’, meant to be shared among 4 people?
In my childhood, the Wazwan was a modest affair, with around 1.5 kg of mutton dishes being the norm. Chicken was never a part of this revered tradition. However, over time, the number of dishes on the Trami has ballooned to over 20, and the quantity of mutton has increased to a staggering 7-8 kg! This means that each person is expected to consume around 2 kg of meat, which can be overwhelming for many.
But what’s even more concerning is the shift from traditional, natural ingredients to artificial additives. In the good old days, we used ‘Mawal’; a herb, to add color to our dishes. Nowadays, artificial coloring is used lavishly, potentially increasing the risk of cancer. This is a worrying trend that aligns with the alarming rise in cancer cases in Kashmir.
In a recent interview with Prof. Mashood, a renowned oncologist at SMHS Hospital in Srinagar, he confirmed that cancer in Kashmir has reached epidemic proportions, citing food and environmental degradation as significant contributing factors.
And then there’s the addition of cold drinks like Coke and ice cream, which were unheard of in traditional Wazwan feasts. It’s strange that Coke has become a staple at many Wazwan events, despite being detrimental to our gastric health. The combination of rich, heavy food with sugary drinks is a recipe for disaster.
Traditionally, Wazas from Bhorikadal, Maharajgunj, and Wazpora Srinagar were renowned for their mastery in preparing Wazwan dishes. Some of their progeny continue to uphold this legacy, preserving the traditional techniques and flavors. However, there’s a growing trend of people from Gurez and other far-flung areas claiming to be the best chefs in Wazwan, which remains disputed among food connoisseurs.
I firmly believe that Wazwan is a unique culinary tradition that has evolved distinctly in Kashmir. While many attribute its origins to Central Asia, I differ, as none of the dishes in Wazwan are found in Central Asian cuisine. In fact, I’ve seen similar claims of culinary influence in Iran and other countries, but the dishes and flavors are distinctly different.
Even kebabs, which are common in these regions, have their own unique flavor and preparation in Kashmir. Kashmiri Wazas have truly fused their own ideas and techniques to create these mouth-watering, traditional dishes.
Remember the “Tathuol”, a wooden casket that was used as a big plate, shared by more than 8 people at a time? It’s fascinating to think about how our traditions have evolved over time, with the Trami eventually replacing the Tathuol.
To tackle the issue of food waste, leftover packing has become a common practice. Four large bags are now placed alongside the Trami in a basket, along with refreshing cold drinks and other accompaniments.
Guests can take home their share of leftovers, reducing food waste and enjoying a convenient meal later. But let’s be honest, isn’t this extravagant spread a blatant display of wealth? Surely, it’s a waste of money!
We all say it’s bad, it’s excessive, and enough is enough… yet, we continue to indulge in this unwanted affair. It’s a vicious cycle of one-upmanship, where the host feels pressured to outdo others, and the guests feel obligated to participate.
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