Kashmir valley where the winters are immensely cold and long, a centuries-old tradition of sun-drying vegetables and fruits has been a lifeline for the locals during the harsh season. This age-old practice, of storing food known as Hokh Syun, involves drying various vegetables and fruits to store them for consumption when fresh produce becomes scarce in the winter months.
Kashmiris have perfected the art of preserving their food through drying or dehydrating, removing moisture to ensure the edibles remain dry and ready for storage. Over the years, Hokh Syun has evolved into a cherished local cuisine, with Dried Tomatoes (Ruwangan Hache), Bottle Gourd (Al-Hache), Pears (Tang Hache), Apple slices (Tchoont Hache), Lotus stems (Nader Hache), Fish (Hokh Gaad or Hoggard), Brinjal (Wangan Hache), Turnip slices (Gogji Hatche), Spinach (Hukh Palak), and forest herbs (Jungle Handh) being among the various varieties.
However, despite its historical significance, the sale of Hokh Syun has seen a decline in the valley. Many Kashmiri households have taken matters into their own hands, opting to dry vegetables at home and store them for the winter. Nevertheless, in the downtown area of Srinagar, historic places like Zaina Kadal, Darish Kadal, Bohri Kadal, and Amira Kadal in Lal Chowk still witness a bustling trade of Hokh Syun.
Last year, heavy snowfall in the valley led to the closure of the Srinagar-Jammu national highway, prompting a resurgence in interest in Hokh Syun. Many who had abandoned the practice of storing dried vegetables are now reconsidering, ensuring a stock of Hokh Syun to tide them over the winter months.
The Valley of Kashmir, once known for its rough and frozen winters, has experienced a shift in its climate. Reduced snowfall, improved road connectivity, and advanced vegetable-growing techniques have made fresh vegetables available year-round in local markets. Despite this convenience, locals, driven by nostalgia, still flock to markets to purchase dried delicacies.
A highlight of winter cuisine in the Valley is the smoked fish locally known as ‘farrigad’ and dried fish called ‘hokhegad.’ Even those who have migrated out of the Valley make special requests for these dried delights, considering them an integral part of their tradition and a source of fond memories.
The increased availability of fresh vegetables, due to enhanced connectivity and higher per capita income, has contributed to a decline in the consumption of Hokh Syun. Many shops in the Jamia Masjid area, once dedicated to selling dried foods, have either closed down or shifted to more profitable ventures.
In the face of these modern challenges, one potential solution to promote Kashmir’s authentic Hokh Syun is leveraging the power of social media. High-quality, enticing photos of these dried delicacies posted on various platforms could generate renewed interest, especially among the younger generation who may be less familiar with this traditional practice.
While the Valley has embraced cultivation and modern techniques such as greenhouses to overcome the challenges of harsh weather, there’s a collective effort to preserve the cultural heritage associated with Hokh Syun. In times when snowfall disrupted connectivity, the locals relied on dried vegetables, pumpkins, smoked fish, tomatoes, and turnips to sustain themselves through the severe winter.
Aijaz Ahmad a local of Downtown Srinagar reminisces, “Back then, the national highway would be closed for months, and the markets would run out.” Slicing and threading all kinds of vegetables and fish into long garlands to hang on walls or laying them out to dry in the sun was a yearly practice for everyone in the valley – a crucial step to ensure survival during the prolonged winter.
In a changing world, where tradition meets modernity, the people of Kashmir are striving to uphold their rich cultural legacy, one dried vegetable at a time.
