CULINARY DELIGHTS
Kashmir is a region which besides natural beauty is widely recognized for its cultural heritage. The region’s rich tapestry of culinary delights has captivated people all over the world. Besides a plethora of street foods like Nadir Monji ( fried flour dipped lotus stem), Seekh Tuji ( barbequed meet), Masal Tchot ( china and chutney wrapped in lavasa bread), Aloo Monji (flour dipped potato chips), Halwa Paratha, etc, we have our traditional foods like Toosha, Yajje, and Chrutt (chutney) that represent us to the wider audience as well. These rich traditional aficionados of delectable taste have not only tantalized the food enthusiasts from time to time but have also savored the traditional symbols of unity, brotherhood, and communal harmony thereby fostering interaction with Kashmir’s societal fabric.
Made from half cooked Tchot (roti made from flour), this delicious and sweet dish, locally known as Tosha holds the pinnacle of popularity in our traditional vistas. Liked by everyone and famous in North Kashmir, this unique dish is served in balls and has religious significance. It was either made by masjid Imam (Persian word used as title for a Muslim religious leader) or by the virtuous men in the locality in presence of masjid leader. It is symbol of joy, brotherhood and reverence. Besides making it at home, people also prepared it in their orchards and later distributed it among children to make a good start of their horticultural activities. In my childhood, Tosha was preferably made in orchards than at home because of its religious worth. The sweet and delectable dish was first distributed out among others before being relished at home. I recall a neighbor of mine who would every year make Tosha in his garden on the very outset of farming activities. He would bring some pious elders headed by Imam and would sit for reciting Khatma Shrief (a religious ritual) in the centre of the orchard as a good starter. And once the Tosha making was over, the due permission was sought from the Imam to dole out the Tosha balls among the kids who would wait for hours for the sweet dish to get ready.
Another dish of Kashmir was Yajje (our traditional snacks) which people tasted with Nun Chai in the Valley. Our Pundit fraternity would prefer Yajje over everything, especially during winter months. Made from Tumuloat (rice flour) mixed with Doon Gojje (walnut kernels), Yajje were kept for cooking throughout the night on charcoal ambers in Katri Doull (the clay container). My maternal grandma, Lt. Zoon Ded has left behind a rich legacy of making Yajje. In fact, my mother had learnt Yajje making from her only. She was a blessed religious lady who would make cup-shaped Yajje, mostly in Chillaikalan when heavy snowfall would totally throw life out of gear. She would start making Yajje, in the evening time (the recipe we all know) and keep them in Katri Doull which she kept on Dambur (traditional Chulha) to get them cooked slowly. I fervently believe that modern Yajje can’t vie with the variety, my grandmother made in the childhood. I can’t forget her tasty Yajje, all my life.
Doon Gojje (walnut kernels) were also used in chutney (sauce) making those days, locally known as Gojje Chrutt. Though there were many types of chutneys been made at home in Nyem (traditional Okhli) like pudina (mint) chutney, molli (radish) chutney, etc, yet, traditional Gojje Chrutt was much famous; something with no equivalent. I recollect, Gojje Chrutt was taken preferably with Gurus (the skimmed milk) everywhere in villages. Even guests would love to take Gojje Chrutt with Gurus; such was the tradition in our Kashmir. People, by and large, produced things at home instead of depending solely on adulterated market products whose ill-effects are quite known to all of us these days.
Come; let’s be connected with our roots and preserve our traditional ethos despite letting every tradition of ours simply get ignored. Let’s also rely least on the food items that are health hazardous vis-à-vis create awareness around that our traditional food items are not only salubrious but also trusted and proven by our elders from times immemorial.
(Author is Rafiabad based columnist. Email: [email protected])
